A good vintage

As soon as I announced that I had a posting schedule I knew I would break it. This post is coming to you a day later than planned because I have spent the weekend gallivanting in Dublin. It was a nice little trip – visiting a friend to catch up on Eurovision because we missed it when it was aired last week. Like many others, Eurovision is a bit of a tradition for us. We always try and watch it together and according to my score sheet, my douze points this year went to Belgium. I never pick the actual winner…

Front

Yes, it’s blue like all my other clothes, but it’s stash fabric, so what’re you gonna do?

So anyway, here’s my latest make! It’s a Sew Over It vintage shirt dress and I am just a teeny bit pleased with it. It’s my second version of the dress, having made the first in a class earlier this year. That one probably won’t get blogged – it’s a perfectly wearable dress but there are so many things I’d do differently (like sew the buttonholes in a straight line) that I’d rather show you a completely successful version. Like this one.

Side

The armholes are finished with bias binding.

My latest attempt is made in a lightweight cotton lawn from Goldhawk Road which will be perfect for summer, if it ever turns up. The guy in the shop said it was Liberty, but I’m more inclined to believe it’s Liberty knock off. It doesn’t feel silky like tana lawn and it had a printing imperfection near the selvedge which probably wouldn’t happen with Liberty fabrics (I like to think their quality control is a bit more advanced). Nevertheless it’s super pretty and it was really nice to work with.

Back

The dress itself is easy to make and fit. It has pleats in the waist instead of darts and it has a lot of ease around the waist. I made a size 12 and added an extra inch to the bodice length as my first version sits a little bit too high, and I wanted to be able to wear a belt at the waist. It’s not a difficult project – the sewing is straightforward as long as you’ve marked everything up properly. The hardest part was attaching the collar. The very clear instructions have you sandwich the collar between the bodice and the facing so you’re sort of attaching it blind, although there is a pattern marker to help you. It’s a bit of a faff, but it does produce a nice neat finish.

One of my triumphs with this dress was definitely the buttonholes. My first version used thicker fabric which meant my machine had a hissy fit at the waist seam. I must have done the first buttonhole above the waist at least ten times, and that’s not an exaggeration. But on this dress the buttonholes went in like a dream, and when the machine went a bit haywire I calmly unpicked, rethreaded and carried on. Eleven buttonholes later I heaved a sigh of relief and congratulated myself on holding my temper.

buttonhole

I mean, look at the state of that! Ripped out SO. MANY. TIMES.

I can’t wait for warmer weather so I can wear this dress without freezing. It’s a flattering shape on me and will be brilliant for work – I don’t have enough summer work clothes so this will really help. I’ve got a few other fabrics in my stash that would suit the pattern – I just need more time to make them up.

What are you making at the moment?

Detail

I added belt loops where the pleats meet at the waistline. This photo doesn’t show them very well, but I also really like the buttons – they’re a little bit shell-like but with an offset square carved out of the middle. Simple, yet sweet.

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11 thoughts on “A good vintage

  1. Caroline says:

    Wow Jo this is gorgeous. The navy print is lovely and works so well with the silhouette.
    I am yet to make my second pair of SOI Cigarette Pants after finishing my first pair a while ago, I need to do it fast before I forget all of Julie’s excellent advice.

  2. Colesworth says:

    Gosh I love this pattern. The fabric you picked is lovely. I’ve just made my 2nd sleeveless one and now I want to make a sleeved version. It does go together quite easily (I adjust my bodice width by taking some of the sides and making the back pleats deeper). I also added about an inch onto my 2nd to see how it would be with a belt, but you’ve just reminded me, I haven’t tried it with the belt yet!

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