You’d give me a job, right?

Morning all! I’ve got a morning of shorts-toiling planned (toile and toil are so close, aren’t they?), so I’m coming at you early doors to share an outfit that’s been sitting in my blog queue for a bit too long.

At some point, I’m going to get a job here in Seattle. However, there’s no sign of that work permit coming through just yet and boredom is beginning to set in. That doesn’t stop me from making interview and work-appropriate clothing though! Truth be told, I didn’t sew either of these pieces with jobs in mind, but I think the outfit would work nicely for a summer office wardrobe.

Front

More roof porn. I love the roof. Had my dinner up there last night and everything. 

The blouse is the Ultimate Shirt by Sew Over It and is one of my May makes. I’ve been hankering after a plain white shirt for so long. I think they’re a great basic – they layer well, they can be smart or casual and look super-crisp.

I managed to squeeze the class in before leaving the UK and I’m so glad I did because I learned so much about shirt construction. The shirt is fitted (thanks to Julie at SOI for helping out with that) and has bias bound cuffs and a collar stand to get to grips with. The only feature it doesn’t have is a lined yoke, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of those on a fitted shirt (please prove me wrong though!).

Cuff close up

Here’s a close-up of that bias-bound cuff. You could add top stitching to the cuff itself, but I think it doesn’t need it here. I’m most likely to wear it with sleeves rolled up anyway, cos I’m ready to get stuck in. Obvs.

I’ve made three versions of this so far (pictured below) but this particular version is in some cotton shirting I picked up at District Fabric not long after I arrived. It was generally beautiful to sew with, though I will admit that it was possibly a little bit too thick for the French seams I attempted as my machine struggled a bit. We got there in the end, but I’d overlock throughout if I was doing it again. No matter – I’m really pleased with the finished effect and think it looks properly smart. Obviously, given my current obsession with shirts and shirt dresses, I’ve got another planned – this time in a floaty red rayon. Can’t wait.

Red ultimate shirt

This is the one I made in the class. That’s Atelier Brunette cotton lawn, which is lovely!

Blue ultimate shirt

My second one is in blue cotton lawn and this is an awkward photo taken at the Seattle Symphony Hall while waiting for Russell Howard to start (he was awesome). 

The other half of the outfit is a long-overdue revisit of the Colette Zinnia skirt (V2). I first made this a few years ago and ended up throwing it across the room in frustration at my inability to insert an invisible zip. While I eventually ended up loving the skirt and wearing it all the time, it bit the dust earlier this year so it didn’t make it to Seattle. Not a bad excuse to make a new one though, eh?

Back

The back. The only thing that is wrong here is I think I put the button band on the wrong side. It just feels wrong when I do it up. Oh well. 

I don’t have much to say about the construction, other than I have now conquered my fear of invisible zips. This one went in with no issues. First time! The real star of this skirt is the fabric, though. It’s a pink chambray that I picked up in the Village Haberdashery before leaving the UK. Nowt special about that, you might say, but this one SPARKLES! It’s got gold thread woven through it so it’s got a lovely sheen which screams summer to me. Unfortunately the photos don’t pick up on the sparkle, but I assure you it is there.

If you’re a long-term reader of this blog, you’ll know that I love versatile separates. These fit the bill perfectly. I’ll wear both of them throughout the summer, and if/when I get that work permit, they’ll be ready for interviews/office work at the drop of a hat. Anyone want to employ me?! (pleeeeeaaaasssseee?)

Side

Thinking of making this my Linked In pic tbh. 

 

Revisiting the Zinnia

Isn’t it good to be on holiday? I’m just coming to the end of a lovely week off work. Chris and I went to Madrid for a few days over the Easter weekend (two words: Iberico ham *drools like Homer Simpson*) and we’re now sitting on the train to Bath to see some friends and watch some rugby. In between we’ve played some laser tag, got a leak fixed and I’ve even managed to squeeze in a couple of makes. The first was my nautical Scout t-shirt, but today it’s all about my new skirt – a Colette Zinnia.

Front view resize

Now that the weather’s better, one of the downsides of taking photos outside is squinting into the camera cos the sun’s in your eyes. 

I’m still (mostly) dedicated to my stash-busting mission, and this make uses up some fabric that’s been lurking in my flat for a little bit too long now. I bought this navy blue stuff from the shop in Balham well over a year ago now, and its first incarnation was the skirt for my contrast Grace dress which I made for a wedding. I ended up with about 1.5m left over. Then I took the Vintage Shirt Dress class at Sew Over It (the product of which needs to be photographed and written up), so I bought some more and used it for the skirt on that too. Again, I ended up buying more than was necessary so I had another metre to add to the pile. I obviously like the stuff (decent weight but with a nice drape), but it was getting a bit silly. Something needed to be done.

I sewed version two of the Zinnia about two years ago and I wear it pretty regularly to work. The other week I noticed that it had a small yet unmendable hole next to the zip. Unsurprising, really, since inserting that invisible zip caused many a tear and tantrum before I finally got it right. It’s pretty sad – that skirt is nowhere near perfect, but it was time to make up a new one, especially since I’ve been lurking Version One on Pinterest for a while now. The navy blue fabric sprang to mind – more than enough for a full skirt and just the right colour for a good wardrobe basic.

I’m happy to say that sewing up this gathered skirt was nowhere near as fraught as its first incarnation. The instructions were really clear, but after a while I stopped referring to them and got on with the job.

Although it’s a seemingly simple gathered skirt, there are a few nice details to keep things interesting. The pleated patch pockets are fully functional, but require a steady hand and eye for top stitching. I think they’re pretty nifty – I probably won’t be putting anything in them, but I like the extra bit of give that the pleat lends, and they sort of remind me of the pockets you see on khaki safari shirts (like this one). I told Chris this and was met with a blank look.

Pocket resize

A slightly wonky pocket, but I love the look.

I’m also a big fan of the placket. The skirt pattern is only two pieces (front and back), but the placket on the right is heavier than the one on the left, so you have to trim a thin strip off the left piece to compensate. You then fold the fabric in on itself and top stitch it down to form the plackets. I really like the look you end up with – it’s thin and neat and really pleasing when you’re sewing. Only trouble is, in this fabric it makes the placket quite thick, so when I came to open up my buttonholes it was really difficult to get my seam ripper through it.

Placket resize

Placket close up. So thin! So neat!

I was in a bit of a rush to finish this one (I had a pancake party to get to), so I dispensed with turning and pressing the hem, and just overlocked it and stitched it down. Since the hem is slightly curved anyway, this means that easing in the excess was much easier and I made it to the pancake place on time. (I had a Greek pancake. I thought I was getting something relatively healthy – you know, tomatoes, cucumber, onion, maybe a bit of feta. But no. It came with ALL THE CHEESE – halloumi, feta and the Greekest of all cheeses, cheddar. I like cheese as much as the next man, but I couldn’t finish it.)

Back view resize

Back view, with an idea of the skirt’s fullness.

Anyway, when this pattern was released I remember seeing a few negative reviews from sewists across the Internet. It was too simple, the pattern was boring, and nothing much of a challenge for the more experienced out there. But I think Colette actually played something of a blinder with the Zinnia. Over the last few years I’ve seen loads of similar skirts on the high street, so if you can make one pretty quickly and save yourself some cash, why wouldn’t you? I think this one cost me about £1.50 for the buttons, and everything else I had in my stash.

What’s on your sewing table at the moment?

 

Look mum, I made a skirt!

Zinnia frontAfter weeks of talking about it, I finally made my Zinnia this weekend. And do you know what? I’m pretty damn pleased with it. And do you know what else? Since I made it in March, it still counts to my tally of sewing projects for the month!  *Hi-fives self*

Ooh lovely fabric
I want to update my work wardrobe for Spring/Summer as everything I have is just a bit too wintry and dark, and it’s time for a bit of colour. Although I work in a professional environment, thankfully I don’t have to wear a suit to the office (thinking about it, not a lot of people do – male and female), so I can wear what I like as long as I’m smart. I chose Zinnia Version 2 with its lovely sewn down pleats and not-so-lovely invisible zip as an office-appropriate start.

I picked a lovely emerald green chambray and pre-washed it as soon as it arrived. Unfortunately I forgot to switch off the tumble dry function on my washing machine – when I pulled it out I found that it had frayed. A lot. Plus because it was bone dry getting the creases out was a right pig of a job. However, the fraying let me see how the fabric is constructed – with lime green threads crossing with royal blue to produce the deep green colour. I just ended up with piles and piles of green thread sticking to everything else in the machine.

Pattern alterations?
The pattern is easy enough to follow and having made up my muslin last week it wasn’t as if I was going to come across anything brand new (though I still did a couple of practice buttonholes before the real thing), and I knew it would fit me OK. So, no alterations to the pattern itself, but I did make a couple of tweaks to the instructions:

  • All visible stitching was done with black thread to provide a contrast. I had to be super-careful with this ‘cos every single mistake would stick out like a sore thumb. So that includes the stitching on the pleats, the waist band, the hem and the buttonhole. That’s a lot that could go wrong, but didn’t really. Thankfully.
  • I understitched the pockets to the side seams so that they wouldn’t roll out. I’m pretty pleased with the results here – you can’t really see them unless you’re looking for them.
  • My muslin is ok, but one thing I did notice was that the hem puckered a bit, even though I measured it. I did some Googling to see how I could prevent it and found Colette Patterns’ tutorial for curved hems. It produces perfect results! Basically you baste the bottom of the skirt at a specified width from the edge (I did ½ inch), use the line to fold the hem up and press, then fold it over again and press. I measured my hem to make sure it was even as I was pressing and pinning, then I stitched it, holding the fabric taut as it went through the machine. There is NO PUCKERING and for the first time ever my stitching is just about even. Yay me!

I still hate invisible zips
However, despite some real triumphs on this project, I still had a few issues. Once again the invisible zip proved to be problematic. The difference is that this time I stayed calm. The first side went in perfectly, but the second side just wouldn’t go in at all. It took a bit of wrestling and unpicking, but I eventually managed it – after about an hour and a half of trying (compared to three or four for the muslin). We’e just not going to look at it that closely.

Zinnia frayed seamsI also didn’t finish my seams in the way I wanted to (plus I managed to sew one side seam into the waistband the wrong way so it tries to pull the wrong way. Need to watch that one for the next time). I bought some bias tape for the purpose, but maths and spatial awareness have never really been my strong points, and I couldn’t work out whether it would show through on the seam if I went ahead and stitched it on. As a result I erred on the side of caution and zigzagged up the seam allowances instead. The seams now fray a bit, so I might go back and pink them to reduce the amount of bright green threads sticking to my tights.

Would I make it again?
These issues are not insurmountable, and I’m really happy that I’ve got a skirt that’s good enough to wear out of the house! I will make another version one day, perhaps in red or a plain black or grey, though I am wondering if that will just remind me too much of school uniform… Anyway, it’s time for something different and I have my sights set on the By Hand London Anna dress for my April sewing project.

This skirt was brought to you by the Stuff You Should Know podcast. I found out all sorts of things – from who really shot JFK (it really probably was Lee Harvey Oswald), to the representation of werewolves in other countries, to how they train guide dogs, and came out better informed at the end of it. Check it out!

Zinnia side view

Zinnia muslin, or how I learned to love my seam ripper

Zinnia muslin resizeWith no sign of the Zinnia sewalong speeding up any time soon, I decided that I would push on with my muslin over the weekend. I read a lot of blogs by people who are considerably more proficient than I am and the Zinnia would take them an hour, maybe two, tops. It took me TWO WHOLE DAYS. That might include cutting and transferring the markings (a particularly tedious task on this project), but the real issue was the invisible zip. More on that later.

The fabric I’m planning on using for my finished project is a lovely green chambray. I’d like to be able to wear the skirt to work, so I really want to make a decent job of it, but there are a few things in there that are new to me (pleats, zips, buttonholes), hence the muslin. I figured that since Colette list the Zinnia as a beginner’s pattern, I should at least be able to fashion a wearable garment on the first try and hang how it looks on the inside! I used some floral fabric I’ve had in my stash for about a year. It’s not something I’d usually choose to wear – it’s a bit too girly for my liking, but it could be ok in the summer…

To begin with it was plain sailing sewing-wise – I’d marked up my fabric pretty accurately so the pleats were easy to do and ended up evenly spaced. Sewing the side seams and pockets was easy enough too. But the problems came with the invisible zip.

Zinnia muslin zip (2) resizeInvisible zips – my new nemesis
I’ve never done one of these, and to be quite honest, I’m not exactly overjoyed about inserting ordinary zips. I bought an early version of the pattern which omits instructions on how to insert it on Version 2 (I believe it has since been corrected), so I got out my Colette Sewing Handbook, cos that’s got to have some sort of help in it, right? Not so much. I followed the instructions, putting the right side of the zip to the right side of the fabric, and ended up with a zip on the inside of the skirt. Argh. I tried different instructions and ended up with the zip the wrong way round, twisted, one side correct, but the other side wrong… You name it, I did it. I started off calmly ripping out the stitches, but after a while my frustration turned to anger and I ended screaming profanities and throwing the skirt across the room. Chris made me some eggy bread halfway through this debacle, which did help, but for the most part he very sensibly stayed away. Eventually I managed it by laying out the zip on the fabric in some semblance of what would be it’s finished state. Unfortunately having ripped it out about eight times, the fabric was looking in a sorry state and I’m not sure how secure it’s going to be in the long run. Anyway, I’ve fathomed out a method now, and hopefully it’ll go in ok when I do the real thing.

After I managed that, the rest of the skirt was straightforward. The waistband went on really easily because my pleats turned out to be pretty accurate (*smug face*), and I managed to work out how to do buttonholes on my machine without too much bother. I was even really very careful about measuring an even hem!

Now it’s finished, and I’ve tried it on, there are a couple of things that I’d change/do better.

  • Take an inch off the bottom cos I’m pretty small.
  • Insert bias binding on the raw seam edges – I do like it when all the raw edges are properly enclosed.
  • Make sure the seams are pressed appropriately. The pattern instructions don’t tell you which way to press.
  • Understitch the pockets so there’s less chance of them gaping out.
  • Potentially extend the stitching on the pleats by half an inch or so, but I will take a judgement call on that.

Next step – cutting and marking my chambray ready for the real thing!

Slowalong…

zinnia skirt

This is version 2 – the one that I want to make. With pleats and belt loops and an invisible zip! From Colette Patterns.

Has anyone else been doing the Stitchery Studio’s Zinnia skirt sewalong? I wanted to do it because I’ve had the pattern for ages but never actually managed/bothered to do anything with it. When I saw that the Stitchery Studio was running a sewalong I thought I’d found the impetus to final get it made. I signed up for email updates and was hoping to get some top tips on making my Zinnia look good, fit perfectly and lose my fear of inserting invisible zips and button holes.

However, it’s now 11 days since the Stitchery’s last post and I’m starting to wonder if it’s died a death before it’s even got going. Over the two posts so far there’s been a lot of useful info about preparation, e.g. taking your measurements and fabric choice. Now I’m itching to get sewing!

I’ve contacted the Stitchery Studio to find out if there’s a schedule for posts as I think I’d benefit from the extra advice a sewalong adds to the pattern instructions (I still class myself as v much a beginner when it comes to dressmaking). I got an out of office reply to say that they’re closed this week. It doesn’t look like there’ll be a new post anytime soon, so in the meantime I’m going to tentatively make a start. I’ve assembled the pattern and my fabric – a nice green chambray from the Village Haberdashery – is on order. I’ve got some cotton in my stash I can use for a [hopefully] wearable muslin, so here we go. Wish me luck.