Simple Sew Shannon trousers: a work in progress

Hi everyone! It’s the first day of Sew My Stash September and I’m here today to show you the last of my August makes. I’m gonna include it in SMSS, though, because this fabric has been in my stash for at least a year. I bought it in Balham with the intention of using it on the Simple Sew Shannon trousers and I’ve finally got round to making them up.

I got the pattern free with an issue of Love Sewing a year or two ago and liked the look of them immediately. In a world of skinny jeans, wide-legged trousers are a breath of fresh air when you have chunky legs like mine. I thought I could also see myself in the shorts, which isn’t something you’ll often hear me say. It must have been love. It’s not quite over now, but this relationship needs work.

Front

The wrinkles across the front look worse than they actually are – think that’s mostly because I’m pulling on the pockets with my thumbs.

Now, I’ve never fitted a pair of trousers without help before. My last pair were the Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers which I made a couple of years ago (and then promptly shrank in the wash). With this in mind I figured that these could be a wearable muslin at least. Based on my measurements (note that the pattern envelope only gives finished measurements) I cut a 12 at the waist and graded to a 16 at the hips. The fit is perfect round the waist but I need at least a size up around the hips – I could barely get the zip up. I let them out a bit, meaning a bunch of tedious unpicking, and minuscule seam allowances. You can see in the photos that the zip is still pulling so I think they still need extra work for me to be happy.

Side

Yep, there’s a little bit of pulling there, and I’m not entirely happy with the way the pockets lie.

Part of the problem was due to the construction which I found downright odd. I sewed them up as per the instructions but I wish I’d read them through properly and made the decision to do something a bit more sensible. Instead of assembling the legs before attaching the waistband, you stitch the crotch seams and one side seam first, so the waistband can go on flat. You then put the zip in, without sewing up the inside legs first. This means that if you follow the instructions to the letter, you can’t do any fitting until they’re just about finished. I’d have preferred to try the pants on, sans waistband, and then adjust as appropriate. Oh well, lesson learned.

Instructions

Yeah, bit odd. 

So, yeah, the fitting was a ballache, and if/when I make these again I’ll need to make some significant changes to the pattern. But that’s not my only beef with the Shannon trousers. The envelope is marked as being for “adventurous beginners” and there’s nothing too difficult in terms of actual sewing, but the instructions are very brief, missing out important details that I think would be useful for beginners. For example, when you sew the waistband and facing, it would be good to grade the seams, and I’d want to keep it lying flat with something more secure than understitching. It also assumes that you know how to insert an invisible zip properly, because the instructions are basically inadequate. This kind of thing is fine if you’ve got a few projects under your belt, but if this is your first foray into zips you’re probably going to want your hand held a bit more. Hell, I need a reminder about invisible zips every time and I’ve put loads in!

Back

We’re going away this weekend so these photos were taken really quickly this morning, hence the wet hair. Kevin Keegan perm is not usually the look I go for. 

It’s funny what a difference a wash and press can do for your makes. When I tried these on fresh off the machine I was convinced they were destined for the bin. But now I’ve tried them on again I’m feeling a bit better about them. Because of the tiny seam allowance I’m not sure they’ll get a lot of wear (something about it makes me nervous), but it shouldn’t take too much to alter the fit on the pattern. I’ll have another go, but it may be next month before I revisit them.

19 thoughts on “Simple Sew Shannon trousers: a work in progress

  1. corrineappleby says:

    I think they look great, particularly from the back! It’s rare that trousers fit straight from the envelope so it may be worth changing things a bit and doing it your way next time. Worth persevering with though! In terms of instructions you are so right. As a simple sew blogger I know that pattern instructions are something they’re working on but they’ve got a long way to go (although how hard can it be?). As for invisible zips, I’ve sewn a lot now and I have to refer to the By Hand London tutorial EVERY time!

    • Jo says:

      Thanks! I will definitely return to them – they’ll be great for the office, so worth putting the effort in – but there’s a lot in my queue right now and I’m on a self-imposed stash diet for September! I completely agree with you about invisible zips – that BHL tutorial is THE BEST. I also whip it out every time I put one in, even though I haven’t made any BHL patterns in ages!!

  2. emmaandhermachine says:

    I think they look great but I am so feeling your pain when it comes it fitting trousers. I’ve never done more than a pair of PJs and they make me so nervous. They look good to me and a good basis for when you try them again too.

    • Jo says:

      Thanks! In the comments above, Naomi recommends the Pants for Real People book, but there are plenty of online resources to try. I think Sew Over It do an online course on fitting – I know they certainly do for the Carrie trousers, but maybe the Ultimate Trousers too?? There’s also the Ginger jeans online workshop by Closet Case Patterns which I hear is pretty comprehensive re fit.

      • emmaandhermachine says:

        I’ll check these out. I bought the Mimi G jeans patterns from Simplicity because she does a really comprehensive tutorial and fitting on YouTube. There’s a place near me that will do pretty much anything so I’m thinking I’ll sign up as winter is drawing in! 😁

  3. Caroline Joynson says:

    The fitting of trousers is mainly why I avoid making them because it can feel like an uphill battle. It seems / seams that you have got these pretty spot on. Just adjust the fit grading at your hips and it looks like these could be a winner!
    Not being cheeky here but they fit your butt very nicely x ; )

  4. Naomi says:

    First you look like an utter babe in these photos – love love love.
    Second, Simple Sew instructions are not great, but their drafting is. For pants, which I LOVE to make, I purchased Pants for Real People by Palmer Pletch. And you know live in the USA so it wouldn’t be too expensive to buy. It will legit change your life for pants making. I’m by no means a perfect pants sewer, but like every woman I have fitting challenges: waist a full size bigger than all other measurements; not much by way of hips but a low, round bum; right hip higher than left; and a long crotch. Before using this book most of my pants were too tight around the waist, riding down at the back, shorter in the right leg, and frequent risk of camel toe. Now I know all this, I never cut the pattern out straight. I usually add about 2 inches to the side seams, then I scoop out the crotch curve (I made myself a template using an old wire coat hanger) and then use the P&P fit as I sew method. This involves sewing the crotch seam first (after darts, pockets etc) then pinning together and trying on right side out. This way you fit for non-symmetrical elements of your body. I could write a tonne more about this, but it really will change your life!!

  5. Lynsey_makes says:

    I think these are fab! The fit looks pretty good to me 🙂 I’m so intimidated by trouser making but I need to just go for it (will definitely chose a pattern with good instructions though!!)

    • Jo says:

      Yeah, they weren’t the best! It’s funny because fundamentally trousers aren’t difficult to sew, it’s just the fitting that can cause issues. What I’d really like is a fit buddy!

  6. Trisha says:

    These have turned out really well and look great on you. Simple Sew patterns don’t have the best instruction but the patterns seem to be well drafted and general fit me well. My Shannon trousers are cut out ready and waiting once I have some time!

    • Jo says:

      A few other people have said that their drafting is good too, and to be fair my fit issues are probably due to my shonky alterations rather than the pattern itself! Looking forward to seeing your version!

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